Cosmetic preparations



Patented Aug. 25, 1942 COSMETIC PREPARATIONS George W. Fiero, Bufl'alo, N. Y.

No Drawing. Application December 12, 1939, Serial No. 308,762

Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of cosmetic preparations, more particularly to the manufacture of ointment and salve bases.

As is well known in the art, there has been a great demand for a satisfactory base for use in the manufacture of ointments and salves. The base most commonly used for this purpose has heretofore been lard. However, extensive use of this substance as a base for ointments and salves has clearly indicated that it is not satisfactory because of the strong tendency of the lard to become rancid under atmospheric conditions. It has been suggested to substitute substances such as wool fat or petrolatum for lard in the manufacture of ointments and salves. Wool fat has not found extensive use because of the strong odor possessed by this product and because of the fact that certain people are somewhat allergic to this material. While petrolatum does not possess any undesirable odor, it has not been found satisfactory for use in the manufacture of ointmentsand salves, since it is not capable of absorbing water and hence is relatively incompatible with aqueous materials which may be incorporated in the cosmetic preparation; furthermore, petrolatum is not readily absorbed by the skin and hence is not particularly efficient in distributing a medicament which may be contained in the ointment or salve throughout the disaffected area on the skin.

In order to remedy the above defects it has been suggested to employ partially hydrogenated oils such as partially hydrogenated cottonseed oil as bases in the manufacture of ointments and salves. This proposal has met with some degree of success, since the partially hydrogenated oils do not tend to become rancid and do not possess any undesirable odors. However, the partially hydrogenated oils employed at present do not absorb substantial quantities of water, and hence are not as satisfactory as might be desired in this respect. Furthermore, it has been found that practically all of the partially hydrogenated oils give ointments or salves which are entirely too soft for suitable use, i. e. the ointments or salves containing these hydrogenated oils do not adhere to the skin, but tend to be easily wiped off and in some cases even flow off due to the extreme softness of the base. More complete hydrogenation of the oils usually produces materials which are too hard and brittle for use in the manufacture of ointments and salves.

It will be apparent from the above discussion that in spite of the suggestions made by those skilled in the art, the demand for a completely satisfactory base for the manufacture of ointments and salves has not as yet been satisfied.

There has also been an extensive demand by manufacturers of preparations such as cold creams, vanishing creams, rouges, lotions, etc.,

for materials which may be employed in relatively small amounts as stiffening agents. Substances such as waxes which have heretofore been used for this purpose ordinarily have to be added to the cream in amounts somewhat greater than the manufacturer desires in order to give the cream the desired consistency; moreover, waxes are considered by many cosmetic experts to be detrimental to the skin.

It is the object of this invention to provide a base for the manufacture of ointments and salves which obviates all the defects above mentioned.

It is a further object of this invention to provide a material which may be incorporated into/ creams in relatively small amounts in orderto impart to the creams a suitable consistency.

Other objects of this invention will be evident from the disclosure hereinafter set forth.

As a result of extensive experimentation, I have found that cosmetic preparations containing a substance selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated castor oil having a melting point above about 40 C. and an iodine value less than about '70, 12-hydroxy stearic acid and soaps thereof have properties which make them far superior to cosmetic preparations heretofore manufactured. Thus ointments and salves prepared from a base comprising chiefly one of the above materials are much harder than ointments and salves prepared from other hydrogenated oils having similar iodine values. This property of ointments and salves prepared in accordance with my invention, as pointed out hereinabove, makes them much more adaptable for application to the skin, since my ointments and salves adhere much more tenaciously to the skin. Because of the relatively hard consistency of the ointments and salves of my invention, they possess a much more pleasant feel than do the ointments and salves prepared from the hydrogenated oils heretofore employed. Ointments and salves prepared in accordance with my invention do not possess any of the disadvantages incidental to similar preparations maufactured from bases such as lard or wool fat, since they do not tend to become rancid and they do not possess any undesirable odors. Another important feature of my invention is that the hydrogenated castor oil preferably employed in accordance therewith possesses a relatively high absorptive capacity for both water and glycerin, so that it is compatible with ingredients containing these substances which may be included in various ointments and salves known to the pharmaceutical art. The bases employed in accordance with my invention are miscible with alcohols and hydrocarbon oils so that relatively large amounts of these substances may be incorporated in the ointments and salves of my invention. I have also found that 12-hydroxy stearic acid forms gels castor oil or other fatty substances.

creams, vanishing creams, medicated ointments,

etc. to give products having a jelly-like feeling and which liquefy more readily on the skin. My research has also indicated that medicated ointments or salves having a base of hydrogenated castor oil have .improved antiseptic properties over the antiseptic properties possessed by similar ointments and salves prepared from standard bases.

I have also made the surprising discovery that hydrogenated castor oil having an iodine value below about 70, and 12-hydroxy stearic acid and itss'oaps may be used to advantage as stiffening agents in the ,manufacture of rouges, cold creams, vanishing creams, lotions and similar cosmetic preparations. As is well known, waxes are the most common stiffeners employed in cosmetics. I have found that the use of one of the above substances or of a mixture of one of these substances with wax permits the. production of much stiffer creams than if the same amount of wax alone were used. This is of great advantage to the manufacturer since he may now include a greater quantity of the active ingredients of the cream in his products. Furthermore, I have discovered that the substances used in accordance with my invention may be employed to great advantage as solvents for dyes, particularly bromo acid, a dye extensively used in the manufacture of lipsticks; a solution of bromo acid in hydrogenated castor oil has been found to have no irritating action when applied to the lips, whereas solutions of bromo acid in castor oil may cause a marked irritation of the lips.

The hydrogenated castor oil employed in accordance with my invention may be of two relatively distinct types. Hydrogenated castor oil having a melting point between about 40 C. and about 55 C. and an iodine value between about 40 and about 70 is hereinafter referred to as soft hydrogenated castor oil. It is to bev understood that the expression soft hydrogenated castor oil does not indicate that the hydrogenated castor oil is necessarily soft, but merely that it is not as hard as the harder variety of hydrogenated castor oil hereinafter described. This soft hydrogenated castor oil is miscible with alcohol and is much more viscous than hydrogenated oils of a similar iodine value or lard. The surface of the soft hydrogenated castor oil when out has an unctuous consistency and the product is entirely free of odor. It may be used to a large extent in the manufacture of ointments and salves wherever it is desired to prepare a product having a reasonably hard consistency.

The other variety of hydrogenated castor oil, known as hard hydrogenated castor oil, has a melting point between about 55 C. and about 85 C. and an iodine value less than about 30; this product is a hard, white mass, appears somewhat translucent and has a'crystalline fracture and a pearly lustre. It is free from odor and may be reduced to a powder, if desired. It may be used in the manufacture of ointments and salves either alone or admixed with soft hydrogenated Furthermore, this product may be used to partly or wholly replace wax in cosmetic preparations such as cold creams and the like, since, as above pointed out. the use of this product permits the production of a suitable hard cream employing much less of the hydrogenated castor oil than would be necessary if wax alone were employed.

Practically any type of ointment or salve may be prepared in accordance with my invention: thus, for example, phenol ointments, sulfur ointments. belladonna ointment, iodine ointment, etc. may be easily compounded according to standard methods. The use of the materials employed in accordance with my invention permits the incorporation of relatively large amounts of water in the ointment or salve prepared therewith without causing the products to lose their homogeneity, as is illustrated by the following test in which samples of soft and hard hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, lard and white petrolatum were added to equal volumes of water and the mixtures permitted to stand, with agitation, for 24 hours at temperatures above their melting points. At the end of this time, the mixtures were cooled to room temperatures, allowed to stand for 48 hours, cooled to 5 C., and then permitted to stand for 6 days. The excess water was then carefully removed and the moisture present in the fat was determined by the Dean method (Ind. & Eng. Chem. 12,486, 1920. The results of these tests areas follows:

Per cent Material: water absorbed White petrolatum 1.7 Lard 3.7 Hydrogenated cottonseed oil 2.5 Soft hydrogenated castor oil 5.9 Hard hydrogenated castor oil 8.5

This difference of water absorption is of extreme importance since it permits the incorporation of aqueous bodies in ointments and salves to a greater extent than was heretofore possible. The water-absorptive capacity of the materials employed in accordance with my invention may be increased by the incorporation therein of relatively small amounts of cholesterol or sulfated hydrogenated castor oil; the sulfated hydro-' genated castor oil used may be similar to that described in my copending application Serial No. 291,498, filed August 23, 1939.

Another surprising and valuable feature of antiseptic ointments and salves prepared in accordance with my invention is their enhanced antiseptic properties. In one test made to demonstrate the improved antiseptic properties of such ointments, agar plates are prepared using agar previously inoculated with a 24 hour .culture of Staphylococcus aureus. Cavities about 1.5 cm. in diameter were then cut in the agar with a sterilized modified cork borer. Phenol ointments were then prepared employing a hydrogenated cottonseed oil base on the one hand, and a soft hydrogenated castor oil base on the other; these ointments each contained 2% phenol. Samples of these ointments were then placed in the cavities in the agar plates, the ointments being melted just to the melting point before insertion into the cavities. The plates were permitted to incubate for 48 hours and were then examined to determine whether or not the ointment had penetrated the agar so as to form a zone around the cavities free of the culture. Cavities containing the hydrogenated cottonseed oil ointmenthad no free zone; however, the cavities containing the soft hydrogenated castor oil ointment had free zones of from 5 to 6 mm. This test is conclusive evidence of the superiority from an antiseptic viewpoint of such ointments prepared in accordance with my invention over ointments prepared employing ordinary hydrogenated oils.

I have found that 12-hydroxy stearic acid may be dissolved in hydrocarbon solvents or fixed oils of substantially no objectionable odor or color so as to form gels having valuable cosmetic properties. Thus, for example, the presence of as little as 0.05% of the 12-hydroxy stearic acid in liquid petrolatum stifi'ens the oil and a 1% solution of the acid in liquid petrolatum produces a heavy, stiff gel which liquefies upon application to the skin. This property is of great interest since other fatty acids when dissolved in hydrocarbon oils or fixed oils merely form solutions which have no cosmetic value whatsoever. The gels obtained in accordance with my invention may be utilized for a variety of purposes as may be evident to those skilled in the art, but

their chief use is in the manufacture of creams such as cold cream and vanishing creams.

In the manufacture of cosmetic preparations such as cold creams, vanishing creams, lotions and the like, the hydrogenated castor oil, bydroxy stearic acid or soaps of hydroxy -stearic acid employed in accordance with my invention may be used as stiffening agents; however, the amount of the stiffening agent which needs to be employed in accordance with the practice of my invention is much smaller than the amount required to produce creams of the same consistency using waxes alone as stifieners. In one case, for example, a cold cream having a suitable consistency was prepared in accordance with my invention using hard hydrogenated castor oil in an amount 40% less than the amount of wax necessary to produce a cream of the same consistency. If desired, these stiffeners of my, invention may be used in combination with waxes in order to give creams having special properties. It is not necessary to modify the preparation of these creams in order to utilize my invention; thus, for example, a cold cream may readily be manufac tured by mixing hard hydrogenated castor oil, liquid petrolatum and stearic acid together at a temmrature of about 90 0., adding thereto an aqueous solution of triethanolamine and agitating until a suitable emulsion is obtained.

Soaps of 12-hydroxy stearic acid may be manufactured by reacting this acid with alkali metals, ammonia or suitable organic amines, such as triethanolamine. These soaps may be used in much the same manner as the acid itself is used, i. e. they may be added to mineral oil in order to produce a gel, or they may be used in the preparation of cleansing creams, cold creams and vanishing creams, etc.

The following examples are illustrative of my invention. It is to be understood that my invention is not intended to be limited to the specific compositions produced in accordance with these examples, but they are given merely in order to illustrate the various types of products which may be prepared. From these examples, it will be evident to one skilled in the art that a large number of cosmetic preparations could be prepared in similar manners.

Example I An ointment was prepared by blending 15 parts of sulfur with 80 parts of soft hydrogenated castor oil. This ointment possessed a suitably hard consistency and adhered to the skin extremely well. A similar ointment having a base of hydrogenated cottonseed oil contained many sulfur particles and was very greasy and soft; in fact it was almost slimy and did not adhere to the skin successfully.

Example II Belladonna ointment may be prepared as follows:

Pilular extract of belladonna grams 10 Diluted alcohol cc 5 Hard hydrogenated castor oil grams 10 Soft hydrogenated castor oil -do '75 Example III Iodine ointment may be prepared from the following ingredients:

Iodine grams 4 Potassium iodide do 4 Glycerine cc 12 Hard hydrogenated castor oil grams 10 Soft hydrogenated castor oil do 70 Example IV Example V A cold cream was prepared by heatin a mixture of 32 parts of heavy liquidpetrolatum, 6 parts of stearic acid and 4 parts of hard hydrogenated castor oil to a temperature of 0., adding to the mixture a solution of 2 parts of triethanolamine in 25 parts of water and then agitating the mixture until a homogeneous emulsion was obtained. In order to prepare a cream having the same consistency using paraflin wax as a stifiener, 5.5 parts of Wax had to be incorporated in the cream, an increase of 37% in the amount of stiffener employed.

Example VI A cold cream was prepared by heating a mixture of 32 parts of heavy liquid petrolatum, 3 parts of stearic acid, 2 parts of .hard hydrogenated castor oil and 2 parts of white wax to a temperature of 90 0., adding to the mixture a solution of 1 part of tri-isopropanolamine in 25 parts of water and then agitating the mixture until a homogeneous emulsion was obtained. In order to obtain a cream having the same consistency using paraffin wax alone as a stiffener, 8 parts of the wax had to be incorporated in the cream, an increase of in the amount of stiffener employed.

Example VII Example VIII A suitable cleansin cream was manufactured by mixing 3 parts of triethanolamine hydroxy stearate, 5 parts of 12-hydroxy stearic acid, 8

parts of hard hydrogenated castor oil and 100' parts of mineral oil, heating the mixture to about became cool.

Example X An excellent hand lotion was prepared by mixing 4 parts of 12-hydroxy stearic acid, 1 part of triethanolamine and 95 parts of water until a homogeneous emulsion was obtained. If desired, part of the water may be replaced by witch hazel or bay rum.

Example XI A liquefying cream was made by melting, parts of l2-hydroxy stearic acid, slowly adding 50 parts of liquid petrolatum to the molten mass, then mixing a hot solution of 1 part of triethanol amine in 30 parts of water with the molten mass and permitting the mixture to cool with agitation.

Example XII A liquefying cream was manufactured by melting a mixture of 2 parts of 12-hydroxy stearic acid and 25 parts of hard hydrogenated castor oil, slowly adding 73 parts of liquid petrolatum to the molten mass and then stirring the mixture until it became cool.

Example XIII A cream lip rouge was prepared by melting 50 parts of soft hydrogenated castor oil, adding 0.25 part of bromo acid and 3 parts of stearic acid to the melt, mixing a hot solution of 1 part of triethanolamine in 30 parts of water with the mass and permitting the mass to cool while stirring.

Example XIV Another type of lip rouge was prepared by melting 20 parts of soft hydrogenated castor oil and parts of hard hydrogenated castor oil, dissolving 0.25 part of bromo acid in the melt, adding 30 parts of liquid petrolatum and permitting the mass to cool with agitation.

Example XV An excellent brushless shaving cream was prepared by melting 8 parts of l2-hydroxy stearic acid, 8 parts of stearic acid and 2 parts of anhydrous lanolin, adding to the melt a hot solution of 2 parts of triethanolamine and 1 part of potassium hydroxide in 80 parts of water and permitting the mixture to cool with agitation.

Other typical creams may be manufactured in accordance wtih my invention. Thus, for example, potassium hydroxide cold cream, ammonia cold cream, sodium hydroxide cold cream, borax cold cream, karaya hand cream and acacia cream may be prepared by methods similar to those given in the above examples.

It is to be understood that other oils comprising predominantly hydrogenated ricinoleic acid or its esters may be used in accordance with my invention. Furthermore, the 12-hydroxy stearic acid referred to above may be used in pure condition or the product obtained by saponifying hydrogenated castor oil may be used.

It will be evident from the above discussion that ointments and salves prepared in accordance with my invention have properties which make them far more suitable than any ointment or salve heretofore known. Furthermore, it will be evident that my invention is applicable to the preparation of a large number of cosmetic materials including among others, cold creams,

bodiments of the invention could be made without departing from its scope, it is intended that all matter contained in the above description shall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

This application is a continuation-in-part of my application Serial No. 134,089, filed March 31, 1937.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is;

1. A cosmetic preparation, containing as the base thereof, a substance selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated castor oil having a melting point above about 40 C. and an iodine value less than about 70, 12-hydroxy stearic acid and soaps thereof.

2. A cosmetic preparation, containing as the base'thereof, hydrogenated castor oil having a melting point above about 40 C. and an iodine value less than about 70.

3. A cosmetic preparation, containing as the base thereof, hydrogenated castor oil having a melting point between about 40 C. and about 55 C. and an iodine value between about 40 and about 70, said hydrogenated castor oil being more viscous than hydrogenated cottonseed oil of a similar iodine value and having an unctuous consistency.

4. A cosmetic preparation, containing as the base thereof, hydrogenated castor oil having a melting point between about 55 and about C. and an iodine value less than about 30, said hydrogenated castor oil being a relatively hard, white mass with a crystalline fracture.

5. An improved antiseptic ointment comprising a medicament incorporated in a base of hydrogenated castor oil having a melting point between about 40 and about 55 C. and an iodine value between about 40 and about 70.

6. An improved cosmetic cream, containing as the base thereof, hydrogenated castor oil having a melting point between about 55 C. and about 85 C. and an iodine value less than about 30.

'7. An improved cosmetic cream containing substantial quantities of hydrogenated castor oil having a melting point between about 55 C. and

about 85 C. and an iodine value less than about 30, and mineral oil.

8. A cosmetic preparation comprising a jellified oil selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils and fixed oils containing 12-hydroxy stearic acid in jellifying amounts.

9. A cosmetic preparation comprising jellified liquid petrolatum containing 12-hydroxy stearic acid in jellifying amounts.

10. A cosmetic preparation, containing as the base thereof, l2-hydroxy stearic acid.

GEORGE W. FIERO. 

